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The "standard" car charger is usually overkill—but your electrician might not know that [32:26]

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  • It factually is not.

    Factually, it's not either. Both are statements of opinion, although I'd say saying the word "usually" should have some degree of proof behind it.

    My statement of "might be" recognizes that there are many instances that L1 makes sense, and I agree with the video that for those for whom it does shouldn't needlessly install a 240v outlet. Sounds like you're among those.

    I'd say that, sadly, most EV drivers drive more than 40 miles per day on average, and that the moment you drive more than 60 miles per day you'll have difficulty recharging to full. Most days, you'll have no trouble recharging overnight. But if you're like me, you might take a day trip over 100 miles away a handful of times per year. When that happens, I'd arrive home with very little battery left; am I supposed to have the ability to charge for 50 hours?

    Factually, it's not either. Both are statements of opinion

    It is not. Hence "factually". We know for a fact how far people "usually" drive.

    But if you're like me, you might take a day trip over 100 miles away a handful of times per year. When that happens, I'd arrive home with very little battery left; am I supposed to have the ability to charge for 50 hours?

    I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

  • Factually, it's not either. Both are statements of opinion

    It is not. Hence "factually". We know for a fact how far people "usually" drive.

    But if you're like me, you might take a day trip over 100 miles away a handful of times per year. When that happens, I'd arrive home with very little battery left; am I supposed to have the ability to charge for 50 hours?

    I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

    I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

    You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles, which I admit will be most people most days (12 hours of charging at 5 miles per hour charged.) Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%, that's (at 5 miles per hour charged) over 25 hours. Empty to full is over 58 hours!

    At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away. Typically a Sunday. Leave on a full battery, arrive home nearly empty. 8 hours of charging, and I maybe have enough for the next day. I will run a deficit until the weekend.

    Again, I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for all people, or even most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

  • I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

    You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles, which I admit will be most people most days (12 hours of charging at 5 miles per hour charged.) Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%, that's (at 5 miles per hour charged) over 25 hours. Empty to full is over 58 hours!

    At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away. Typically a Sunday. Leave on a full battery, arrive home nearly empty. 8 hours of charging, and I maybe have enough for the next day. I will run a deficit until the weekend.

    Again, I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for all people, or even most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

    You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles

    Read it again. I said 60 miles the day after driving it to 0%. People don't "usually" need this.

    Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%,

    Thats 176 miles of range. People don't "usually" need that.

    At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away.

    You said all of this already and I already replied to it.

    I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for...most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

    🤔 Wat. Do you think there's like a L1.5 or something?

  • You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles

    Read it again. I said 60 miles the day after driving it to 0%. People don't "usually" need this.

    Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%,

    Thats 176 miles of range. People don't "usually" need that.

    At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away.

    You said all of this already and I already replied to it.

    I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for...most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

    🤔 Wat. Do you think there's like a L1.5 or something?

    Let’s agree to simply not tell people what they do and do not need.

  • I agree with this youtube comment:

    As an electrician (in Australia), I agree with your basic premise. However, if you are asking me to install an EV charger, unless you tell me “I want it to charge slowly with a limited current capacity”, I am going to assume it is to charge an EV under ALL situations - fast to slow, for whoever may drive one today or in the future, even with a potential new homeowner. We generally do our work with the priority order (1) safety - nobody gets an electric shock and nothing catches fire; (2) avoidance of nuisance i.e. the thing you just installed doesn’t work and keeps tripping the breaker 😑 (3) avoiding needing replacement electrical work for at least 25 - 50 years

    Also I live in a townhouse with no garage. Our charger is between the neighborhood sidewalk and our parking spaces, so I'd prefer keeping it plugged in as little as possible to minimize any issues with foot traffic (neighbors, delivery people, garbage pickup, etc). I've seen other townhouse EV owners literally run an extension cable over the sidewalk to do an L1 charge for their EV and that's just asking for trouble.

    Personally, I'm on an electricity plan that gives me free usage at midday when solar is flooding the grid, so it's useful for me to be able to charge as fast as possible in that window.

    Faster charging is useful for more than just finishing before your next drive.

  • Let’s agree to simply not tell people what they do and do not need.

    I'm not telling anyone what they need. I'm telling you what people usually need. Which is the topic of the conversation you started.

  • Highly recommend Technology Connections for anyone interested in easy to understand, relatable breakdown videos of technology.

    Mostly old-ish technology, which is far more interesting because they had to be more innovative.

  • This has to be my favorite thing about Jeff Geerling vs other YouTube channels, he'll make an accompanying blog post to go with each of his main channel videos that is effectively an annotated text version of the video with appropriately embedded images and links.

    Lots of them do that if you look.

  • The way I explained it to my brother:

    • technically just plug in to an existing outlet will work. Even if you didn’t keep up every day, you would get tot the weekend and make it up then
    • but your garage already has a dryer outlet. Adapters are cheap and it will charge 4-5 times as fast
    • but 50a level 2 charger is the same size as a stove outlet. Maybe a little longer wire run, and the “outlet” is more expensive, but it’s well worth the cost for the freedom, the flexibility, the convenience … and may even add to your house value

    As explained in the video you can't run 50 amps ona dryer outlet. It's 42 amps max.

  • Good video. Accurate information.

    Two notes:

    1. For North American homes: I agree with the overlooked value of a downrated circuit for EV charging, but I don't think he talked about a possibly better option for downrating: Using an existing 120v circuit (at whatever current rating) already wired in the garage . Remove the outlet, install EVSE (charger), and swap the breaker for a 240v one (at a current rating matching the original. So if you have a 120v 15A circuit (white romex) you can use the exact same wire for a 240v at 15A. If you have a 20A (yellow romex) you would end up with a 240v 20A. You get more than double the speed of charging with zero new wires added, only changing the breaker and removing the old outlets. Note: If you have multiple outlets in your garage all fed from this same circuit, this would mean all of your outlets in the garage are now 240v and not usable for regular 120v items.

    2. He didn't like Smart chargers. Thats a valid opinion, but smart chargers can do some nice things that I like. Some will also talk to each other if you have two chargers, such as if you have two EVs. They can be configured to share the same wire to the breaker box, so you can plug both cars in at night, one car will charge, then when that is complete, the other will charge automatically without having to unplug one car and then plug in the other. It will charge the least charged car first ensuring the best balance of charge to both cars assuming both cars can't be charged to full in one night. If you have solar panels, some smart chargers can talk to the solar system and be instructed to only charge when there is excess power that would otherwise go to waste. It can do this automatically so if clouds go overhead and not enough juice is available from the sun, the charging stops. As soon as the clouds clear and there is an excess again, charging resumes automatically. For outdoor charging, you can also configure most Smart chargers to only charge you authorized cars. So you don't need to worry about someone rolling into your driveway when you're not home (or a bad neighbor) and running up your electricity bill.

    Wtf even is this comment

    For context I'm an electrician

    You absolutely can't just "swap a 15A 120v breaker to a 240v one". 240v single phase referenced to ground does not exist in a residential context, that is only common in europe. A residential service is 240v split-phase meaning each half of 240 is referenced to neutral, 180 degrees out of phase with each other. The reference to the grounded conductor (neutral) from the transformer is 120v to gnd, or 240v phase to phase. 240v is always referenced phase to phase, never to ground.

    This comment is dangerous and stupid. Just try to use some random ass outlet in your garage that is likely tied to other outlets bc other than the GFCI next to your panel there are very few circuits in the US that have a single 120v outlet. Running 240v to more than one outlet is v much pushing the limits on code, but I can't say that for certain. I'm an industrial electrician, not resi.

    Either way tho, trying to draw more voltage than what's available will only destroy what's in there.

    Lastly "If you have a 20A (yellow romex) you would end up with a 240v 20A. You get more than double the speed of charging with zero new wires added, only changing the breaker and removing the old outlets"

    This is pure fucking bullshit my dude. 20 amps is the current rating of the circuit before it will trip. What car charger is out there that can run 120v at a slightly higher current, which I don't think even exists because you can't just make it 240v, that the overpowered "yellow Romex" can provide you

    This is dangerous and stupid. Just stop now

  • Changing a 120v line over to 240 is likely also against code even if the physical cable can handle it. 120V cable is typically white/black/green, and the electrical code prohibits using the white one as a hot leg. That’s why 240V cable of the same AWG is red/black/green. The red & black legs both carry 120V.

    Code allows painting the white conductor black which is what i do. Or at least it did 10 years ago when I last checked.

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    You might not need 50 amps now. But that line is a 1 time cost and maybe you'll want to weld one day.

  • Mostly old-ish technology, which is far more interesting because they had to be more innovative.

    Dat toaster

  • #1 is a terrible idea if you ever need to hire an electrician in the future, plan on selling your house, etc. The National Electric Code prohibits using white, green, or grey wire for a hot/load connection. The 120V cable will contain a black wire for the hot connection, white for neutral, and green for ground. To properly convert it to 240V you would need a cable that consists of black & red wires for the two 120V legs.

    If your home ever suffered an electrical fire then this sort of jury rigging is precisely the sort of thing any competent insurance inspector would spot, and insurance carriers would deny coverage for since it clearly isn’t code compliant, which means a licensed electrician didn’t install it and it wasn’t properly inspected.

    The "120 volt cable", assuming you mean NM-B aka Romex, is rated for up to 600 volts if you look at it closely. It is absolutely acceptable to use that wiring for a 240V circuit, as long as you wrap colored (not green) electrical tape around the white neutral wire to indicate it's another hot.

    Yes, there are 3-conductor (plus ground) wires one can also use for switches and 240V circuits with neutral. That neutral can be used to have 120V and 240V together (your oven may use 240V coils, but the light bulb probably runs on 120). Doesn't mean you need to have it, if your 240V circuit doesn't need a neutral. My air compressor is just a motor that can run at 240, no neutral needed, and its outlet is wired up with the same kind of Romex used for a 120 right next to it (with black tape to indicate a second hot)

  • As explained in the video you can't run 50 amps ona dryer outlet. It's 42 amps max.

    I believe dryer outlets are typically 30a@240v. That’s a nice step up than a standard outlet and simple math shows 4x the power of 15a@120v

    If you have one in your garage, then you already have an outlet that can do faster charging than a standard outlet.

    Just like you technically don’t need a 50a level 2 charger, you may not have to settle for a standard outlet. I bought a heavy duty extension cable with adapters for several different outlet types.

  • As explained in the video you can't run 50 amps ona dryer outlet. It's 42 amps max.

    Can you cite a time stamp? I don't want to watch a 30 minute video.

    I'm very curious where "42 amps max" comes from, as NEMA outlets are rated for 15A, 20A, 30A, 50A, or 60A. 42A is a rather oddball number; I'd like some context for it.

    Most dryer outlets are rated for 30A, NEMA 10-30, or 14-30.

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    A small 30 amp level 2 charger can put another 10 miles of range in a 450 Wh/mi car in 40 minutes.

    A 15 amp level 1 charger can put another 10 miles of range in a 450 Wh/mi car in 2.5 hours on paper, but practically it takes longer, over 3 hours if it downrates itself to 12 amps, and almost 5 hours if it chickens out to 8 amps.

    Another 4.5 kWh of battery gets another 10 miles of range without charging.

    Having a level 2 charger at home means any time you go home for just about any reason you can always take just about any trip again right away, without an expensive vehicle with an oversized battery.

  • I think “might be overkill” would be a better title and position than “usually overkill.”

    It factually is not.

    most people would fall behind anytime they drive further than the average number of miles.

    Assume you drive it all the way to empty, then park it and plug it back in at 7PM. Leave it for 12 hours until you leave again in the morning at 7AM. A typical small EV will charge at ~5MPH on a 110V, 1.2kW connection (faster on a 20A circuit). So 5MPH x 12 hours means you already have 60 miles of range again for the next day. And I would say that's a pretty extreme scenario.

    Realistically you would never drive it to 0% and you would probably leave it parked longer than 12 hours.

    I use L1 almost exclusively, BTW.

    Probably if you have a Hummer or something you might want something a bit faster.

    What electric vehicle gets 5 miles/1.2kWh? That's only 240 Wh/mi.

  • What electric vehicle gets 5 miles/1.2kWh? That's only 240 Wh/mi.

    What electric vehicle gets 5 miles/1.2kWh?

    Most of the small ones.

  • Agreed, and that headline is needlessly inflammatory . Looking at my EV mileage , I could almost certainly get away with just plugging into a standard outlet. However the level 2 charger means that even if I screw it up, I can be mostly charged in a couple of hours. It’s been really effective at helping me get over what range anxiety I had. It’s really helped keep car usage as a somewhat impulse thing, rather than a process: I’m ready to go anywhere anytime.

    It also means I can charge multiple EVs, if I wanted to.

    If you screw up, you can usually get to a charger a few blocks away and snag 50% of your battery in 20 minutes.

    I charge entirely off of a standard 120 outlet, and it easily handles my daily and weekly travel needs, along with my partner's numerous errands and extra trips throughout the week.

  • You're not alone: This email from Google's Gemini team is concerning

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    My understanding is that, in broad strokes... Aurora acts like a proxy or mirror that doesn't require you to sign in to get Google Play Store apps. It doesn't provide any other software besides what you specifically download from it, and it doesn't include any telemetry/tracking like normal Google Play Store would. microG is a reimplementation of Google Play services (the suite of proprietary background services that Google runs on normal Android phones). MicroG doesn't have the bloat and tracking and other closed source functionality, but rather acts as a stand-in that other apps can talk to (when they'd normally be talking to Google Play services). This has to be installed and configured and I would refer to the microG github or other documentation. GrapheneOS has its own sandboxed Google Play Services which is basically unmodified Google Play Services, crammed into its own sandbox with no special permissions, and a compatibility layer that retains some functionality while keeping it from being able to access app data with high level permissions like it would normally do on a vanilla Android phone.
  • YouTube might slow down your videos if you block ads

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    [image: 24aa87b2-162d-4296-aaf7-31d42f30ed63.png]
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    Obviously the law must be simple enough to follow so that for Jim’s furniture shop is not a problem nor a too high cost to respect it, but it must be clear that if you break it you can cease to exist as company. I think this may be the root of our disagreement, I do not believe that there is any law making body today that is capable of an elegantly simple law. I could be too naive, but I think it is possible. We also definitely have a difference on opinion when it comes to the severity of the infraction, in my mind, while privacy is important, it should not have the same level of punishments associated with it when compared to something on the level of poisoning water ways; I think that a privacy law should hurt but be able to be learned from while in the poison case it should result in the bankruptcy of a company. The severity is directly proportional to the number of people affected. If you violate the privacy of 200 million people is the same that you poison the water of 10 people. And while with the poisoning scenario it could be better to jail the responsible people (for a very, very long time) and let the company survive to clean the water, once your privacy is violated there is no way back, a company could not fix it. The issue we find ourselves with today is that the aggregate of all privacy breaches makes it harmful to the people, but with a sizeable enough fine, I find it hard to believe that there would be major or lasting damage. So how much money your privacy it's worth ? 6 For this reason I don’t think it is wise to write laws that will bankrupt a company off of one infraction which was not directly or indirectly harmful to the physical well being of the people: and I am using indirectly a little bit more strict than I would like to since as I said before, the aggregate of all the information is harmful. The point is that the goal is not to bankrupt companies but to have them behave right. The penalty associated to every law IS the tool that make you respect the law. And it must be so high that you don't want to break the law. I would have to look into the laws in question, but on a surface level I think that any company should be subjected to the same baseline privacy laws, so if there isn’t anything screwy within the law that apple, Google, and Facebook are ignoring, I think it should apply to them. Trust me on this one, direct experience payment processors have a lot more rules to follow to be able to work. I do not want jail time for the CEO by default but he need to know that he will pay personally if the company break the law, it is the only way to make him run the company being sure that it follow the laws. For some reason I don’t have my usual cynicism when it comes to this issue. I think that the magnitude of loses that vested interests have in these companies would make it so that companies would police themselves for fear of losing profits. That being said I wouldn’t be opposed to some form of personal accountability on corporate leadership, but I fear that they will just end up finding a way to create a scapegoat everytime. It is not cynicism. I simply think that a huge fine to a single person (the CEO for example) is useless since it too easy to avoid and if it really huge realistically it would be never paid anyway so nothing usefull since the net worth of this kind of people is only on the paper. So if you slap a 100 billion file to Musk he will never pay because he has not the money to pay even if technically he is worth way more than that. Jail time instead is something that even Musk can experience. In general I like laws that are as objective as possible, I think that a privacy law should be written so that it is very objectively overbearing, but that has a smaller fine associated with it. This way the law is very clear on right and wrong, while also giving the businesses time and incentive to change their practices without having to sink large amount of expenses into lawyers to review every minute detail, which is the logical conclusion of the one infraction bankrupt system that you seem to be supporting. Then you write a law that explicitally state what you can do and what is not allowed is forbidden by default.
  • Palantir Revisited: Who’s Us in Us vs. Them? | naked capitalism

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    In those situations I usually enable 1.5x.
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    You don’t understand. The tracking and spying is the entire point of the maneuver. The ‘children are accessing porn’ thing is just a Trojan horse to justify the spying. I understand what are you saying, I simply don't consider to check if a law is applied as a Trojan horse in itself. I would agree if the EU had said to these sites "give us all the the access log, a list of your subscriber, every data you gather and a list of every IP it ever connected to your site", and even this way does not imply that with only the IP you could know who the user is without even asking the telecom company for help. So, is it a Trojan horse ? Maybe, it heavily depend on how the EU want to do it. If they just ask "show me how you try to avoid that a minor access your material", which normally is the fist step, I don't see how it could be a Trojan horse. It could become, I agree on that. As you pointed out, it’s already illegal for them to access it, and parents are legally required to prevent their children from accessing it. No, parents are not legally required to prevent it. The seller (or provider) is legally required. It is a subtle but important difference. But you don’t lock down the entire population, or institute pre-crime surveillance policies, just because some parents are not going to follow the law. True. You simply impose laws that make mandatories for the provider to check if he can sell/serve something to someone. I mean asking that the cashier of mall check if I am an adult when I buy a bottle of wine is no different than asking to Pornhub to check if the viewer is an adult. I agree that in one case is really simple and in the other is really hard (and it is becoming harder by the day). You then charge the guilty parents after the offense. Ok, it would work, but then how do you caught the offendind parents if not checking what everyone do ? Is it not simpler to try to prevent it instead ?
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    Take a longer text (like 70 pages or so) and try to delete the first 30 pages.