I think “might be overkill” would be a better title and position than “usually overkill.”

There is absolutely a subset of EV drivers that could get by with a level 1 charger (ignoring time of day rates), but most people would fall behind anytime they drive further than the average number of miles. Sure, taking 10 hours to recharge your Chevy Bolt overnight when you’ve driven 40 miles is doable; 64 hours when you’ve returned home from a longer trip isn’t.

I own a PHEV, and installing a level 2 charge has been one of the best quality of life and financial changes.

What kind of range do you have on that? I've been debating installing a l2 charger because overnight charging is usually good enough. I tend to get about 15-20 miles range tops on pure electric.

Hell, depending on local codes, you might get away with slapping in a nema 6-20 receptacle to make it even easier…

If you do a receptacle, you've got to then do a GFCI. Check out the price difference between a GFCI breaker and one that isn't. If you hardware the EVSE, you don't need GFCI because GFCI is built into nearly all EVSE. If we're doing this exercise to keep low costs, adding GFCI outside of the EVSE jacks up the price.

Good video. Accurate information.

Two notes:

1. For North American homes: I agree with the overlooked value of a downrated circuit for EV charging, but I don't think he talked about a possibly better option for downrating: Using an existing 120v circuit (at whatever current rating) already wired in the garage . Remove the outlet, install EVSE (charger), and swap the breaker for a 240v one (at a current rating matching the original. So if you have a 120v 15A circuit (white romex) you can use the exact same wire for a 240v at 15A. If you have a 20A (yellow romex) you would end up with a 240v 20A. You get more than double the speed of charging with zero new wires added, only changing the breaker and removing the old outlets. Note: If you have multiple outlets in your garage all fed from this same circuit, this would mean all of your outlets in the garage are now 240v and not usable for regular 120v items.

2. He didn't like Smart chargers. Thats a valid opinion, but smart chargers can do some nice things that I like. Some will also talk to each other if you have two chargers, such as if you have two EVs. They can be configured to share the same wire to the breaker box, so you can plug both cars in at night, one car will charge, then when that is complete, the other will charge automatically without having to unplug one car and then plug in the other. It will charge the least charged car first ensuring the best balance of charge to both cars assuming both cars can't be charged to full in one night. If you have solar panels, some smart chargers can talk to the solar system and be instructed to only charge when there is excess power that would otherwise go to waste. It can do this automatically so if clouds go overhead and not enough juice is available from the sun, the charging stops. As soon as the clouds clear and there is an excess again, charging resumes automatically. For outdoor charging, you can also configure most Smart chargers to only charge you authorized cars. So you don't need to worry about someone rolling into your driveway when you're not home (or a bad neighbor) and running up your electricity bill.

For me, they're captivating for about 5 minutes. Then the dry humor and constant cries of outrage become irritating. He could probably make 15-20 minute, info-dense videos without all the extra "personality".

I think “might be overkill” would be a better title and position than “usually overkill.”

There is absolutely a subset of EV drivers that could get by with a level 1 charger (ignoring time of day rates), but most people would fall behind anytime they drive further than the average number of miles. Sure, taking 10 hours to recharge your Chevy Bolt overnight when you’ve driven 40 miles is doable; 64 hours when you’ve returned home from a longer trip isn’t.

I own a PHEV, and installing a level 2 charge has been one of the best quality of life and financial changes.

For me, they're captivating for about 5 minutes. Then the dry humor and constant cries of outrage become irritating. He could probably make 15-20 minute, info-dense videos without all the extra "personality".

I think “might be overkill” would be a better title and position than “usually overkill.”

It factually is not.

most people would fall behind anytime they drive further than the average number of miles.

Assume you drive it all the way to empty, then park it and plug it back in at 7PM. Leave it for 12 hours until you leave again in the morning at 7AM. A typical small EV will charge at ~5MPH on a 110V, 1.2kW connection (faster on a 20A circuit). So 5MPH x 12 hours means you already have 60 miles of range again for the next day. And I would say that's a pretty extreme scenario.

Realistically you would never drive it to 0% and you would probably leave it parked longer than 12 hours.

I use L1 almost exclusively, BTW.

Probably if you have a Hummer or something you might want something a bit faster.

It factually is not.

Factually, it's not either. Both are statements of opinion, although I'd say saying the word "usually" should have some degree of proof behind it.

My statement of "might be" recognizes that there are many instances that L1 makes sense, and I agree with the video that for those for whom it does shouldn't needlessly install a 240v outlet. Sounds like you're among those.

I'd say that, sadly, most EV drivers drive more than 40 miles per day on average, and that the moment you drive more than 60 miles per day you'll have difficulty recharging to full. Most days, you'll have no trouble recharging overnight. But if you're like me, you might take a day trip over 100 miles away a handful of times per year. When that happens, I'd arrive home with very little battery left; am I supposed to have the ability to charge for 50 hours?

Factually, it's not either. Both are statements of opinion

It is not. Hence "factually". We know for a fact how far people "usually" drive.

But if you're like me, you might take a day trip over 100 miles away a handful of times per year. When that happens, I'd arrive home with very little battery left; am I supposed to have the ability to charge for 50 hours?

I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

I just explained this in the comment you replied to.

You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles, which I admit will be most people most days (12 hours of charging at 5 miles per hour charged.) Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%, that's (at 5 miles per hour charged) over 25 hours. Empty to full is over 58 hours!

At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away. Typically a Sunday. Leave on a full battery, arrive home nearly empty. 8 hours of charging, and I maybe have enough for the next day. I will run a deficit until the weekend.

Again, I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for all people, or even most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

You explained how it's doable when you drive 60 miles

Read it again. I said 60 miles the day after driving it to 0%. People don't "usually" need this.

Average EV has 293 miles of range currently; even if you arrived home with 20% battery remaining and you only wanted to recharge to 80%,

Thats 176 miles of range. People don't "usually" need that.

At least once every few months we take a day trip to the nearest "big" city, which is 105 miles away.

You said all of this already and I already replied to it.

I'm certainly not saying that a L2 charger is a must for...most people. But I would not agree that L1 is enough for most people.

Wat. Do you think there's like a L1.5 or something?

I agree with this youtube comment:

As an electrician (in Australia), I agree with your basic premise. However, if you are asking me to install an EV charger, unless you tell me “I want it to charge slowly with a limited current capacity”, I am going to assume it is to charge an EV under ALL situations - fast to slow, for whoever may drive one today or in the future, even with a potential new homeowner. We generally do our work with the priority order (1) safety - nobody gets an electric shock and nothing catches fire; (2) avoidance of nuisance i.e. the thing you just installed doesn’t work and keeps tripping the breaker (3) avoiding needing replacement electrical work for at least 25 - 50 years

Also I live in a townhouse with no garage. Our charger is between the neighborhood sidewalk and our parking spaces, so I'd prefer keeping it plugged in as little as possible to minimize any issues with foot traffic (neighbors, delivery people, garbage pickup, etc). I've seen other townhouse EV owners literally run an extension cable over the sidewalk to do an L1 charge for their EV and that's just asking for trouble.

Let’s agree to simply not tell people what they do and do not need.

Highly recommend Technology Connections for anyone interested in easy to understand, relatable breakdown videos of technology.

This has to be my favorite thing about Jeff Geerling vs other YouTube channels, he'll make an accompanying blog post to go with each of his main channel videos that is effectively an annotated text version of the video with appropriately embedded images and links.

The way I explained it to my brother:

• technically just plug in to an existing outlet will work. Even if you didn’t keep up every day, you would get tot the weekend and make it up then
• but your garage already has a dryer outlet. Adapters are cheap and it will charge 4-5 times as fast
• but 50a level 2 charger is the same size as a stove outlet. Maybe a little longer wire run, and the “outlet” is more expensive, but it’s well worth the cost for the freedom, the flexibility, the convenience … and may even add to your house value

Good video. Accurate information.

Two notes:

1. For North American homes: I agree with the overlooked value of a downrated circuit for EV charging, but I don't think he talked about a possibly better option for downrating: Using an existing 120v circuit (at whatever current rating) already wired in the garage . Remove the outlet, install EVSE (charger), and swap the breaker for a 240v one (at a current rating matching the original. So if you have a 120v 15A circuit (white romex) you can use the exact same wire for a 240v at 15A. If you have a 20A (yellow romex) you would end up with a 240v 20A. You get more than double the speed of charging with zero new wires added, only changing the breaker and removing the old outlets. Note: If you have multiple outlets in your garage all fed from this same circuit, this would mean all of your outlets in the garage are now 240v and not usable for regular 120v items.

2. He didn't like Smart chargers. Thats a valid opinion, but smart chargers can do some nice things that I like. Some will also talk to each other if you have two chargers, such as if you have two EVs. They can be configured to share the same wire to the breaker box, so you can plug both cars in at night, one car will charge, then when that is complete, the other will charge automatically without having to unplug one car and then plug in the other. It will charge the least charged car first ensuring the best balance of charge to both cars assuming both cars can't be charged to full in one night. If you have solar panels, some smart chargers can talk to the solar system and be instructed to only charge when there is excess power that would otherwise go to waste. It can do this automatically so if clouds go overhead and not enough juice is available from the sun, the charging stops. As soon as the clouds clear and there is an excess again, charging resumes automatically. For outdoor charging, you can also configure most Smart chargers to only charge you authorized cars. So you don't need to worry about someone rolling into your driveway when you're not home (or a bad neighbor) and running up your electricity bill.

Changing a 120v line over to 240 is likely also against code even if the physical cable can handle it. 120V cable is typically white/black/green, and the electrical code prohibits using the white one as a hot leg. That’s why 240V cable of the same AWG is red/black/green. The red & black legs both carry 120V.